DIY | Easy Homemade Garden Bench | DIY Projects for U
Wood’s worst enemy is moisture, so it’s important Dry Your Woodand. the bench is most vulnerable where the legs come in contact with the moist ground. To make the bench last longer, simply place a small paver under each of the legs.
Where you’ll find the water
Water occurs in wood in two places. First, there’s the free water that fills the inside of the wood’s cells. That’s like water in a bucket.
Second, water also infiltrates the cell walls. That’s called bound water. Imagine squeezing a piece of cotton cheesecloth until all the free water has drained away. The cloth, through, remains damp because the material continues to contain moisture—the bound water.
When wood only contains bound water, it’s said to be at its fiber saturation point. And the bound water can be eliminated completely (0% moisture content) only by drying it somewhere with no relative humidity.
This classic little 4-foot-long bench is inexpensive and easy to construct with just a few basic tools. It costs less than $30 in materials and will take about an hour to build.
Circular saw (optional)
Electric drill with a screwdriver bit
Two 4-foot-long 1x6s
Two 16-inch-long 2x12s
Two 11¼-inch-long 2x2s
Two 4-foot-long 2x8s
Twelve 2½-inch-long stainless-steel decking screws
Eight 1¾-inch-long stainless-steel decking screws
For the tapered ends of the face boards, use a speed square to mark off 45-degree triangles on each end of the 1x6s.
To make the cutouts in the legs, mark a triangle in the center of the bottom edge of each 2×12.
Using the speed square as a guide, cut out the triangles (photo); if you’re using a circular saw, you’ll need to finish cutting the leg notches with a handsaw.
Attach the fastening bars. On one side of each leg, position a fastening bar flush with the top of the board and attach it with two 2½-inch-long screws, approximately 1½ inches from each end.
Rest both leg boards on their sides on a flat work surface, with the fastening bars facing each other.
Place a face board on the side of the legs, and adjust the leg spacing so that the shorter edge of the face board is flush with the outside of each leg.
Attach the face board to the legs with 1¾-inch-long screws. Flip the legs over, and attach the second face board in the same fashion.
Place the 2x8s side by side on your work surface, and use the edge of the speed square to create a gap between the boards.
Make sure the ends of the boards line up perfectly. Lay the leg assembly on the seat boards, upside down, and center it.
Attach the leg assembly to the seat boards by screwing through the fastening bars to the seat boards with four 2½-inch-long screws on each side.
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