Start by thinking about how you want the finished project to look and remember that you’re not limited to four walls in the same color.
Consider painting an accent wall in a bold hue or highlighting moldings in a contrasting shade or finish.
And don’t forget to look up and see whether the ceiling could use a refresh as well.
Rather than dipping your brush into the gallon can the paint comes in, transfer a small amount to a paint pail.
Pour only about an inch of paint into the pail. A small amount of paint prevents dipping your brush too deep, reduces weight, and expedites cleanup if you spill the paint.
Choose your color Browsing through fan decks and paint chips can be overwhelming.
Start by figuring out the general color characteristics: Do you want a warm or cool shade? A neutral or a saturated shade? If you have existing furniture or art, you’ll also want to consider how the shade will compliment them.
pick a few shades, and get samples. Test the shades to see how they look.
Tools and Materials:
Every project is unique and you may need different tools depending on the paint you choose and the condition of your walls, but there are a few must-haves.
Paint roller extension pole
Don’t forget ventilation Make sure your space is well-ventilated throughout the project by opening windows and using fans.
Clean up Remove all painters tape and gather drop clothes, making sure any spills or splatters are dry before you move them. For latex- and water-based paints, clean brushes with soap and water.
The amount of time your project will take depends on the size of your room, how you’re painting, and your skill level. For instance,
using a dark shade on the walls and painting the ceiling and trim will take longer than just doing the walls in a neutral.
Over time, and as the layers of paint build up, lumps and bugs can get stuck to the ceiling.
On ceilings that aren’t textured, start with a quick once-over, sanding with 100 grit abrasive paper.
This helps ensure a perfectly smooth paint job and also increases paint bonding.
Use a sanding pole to make working easier, then wipe the ceiling afterward with a damp sponge to remove the dust.
Professional painters typically opt for the freehand cut-in technique when edging a room.
Yet few inexperienced do-it-yourself painters can successfully cut in paint without slopping onto the other side. Cutting in is all about experience and patience.
Painter’s tape is effective but not perfect. Bleed-through under the tape is common, and tape that appears to be straight when you apply it might actually have a slight curve to it.
Paint edgers are typically used for wall painting, such as above baseboards, below the crown molding, around window and door trim, and at the juncture between two walls, such as for accent walls.
No paint edger is perfect. Each paint edger comes with its own set of limitations and positives, and much of your success with the paint edger is a matter of matching your skills and temperament to the paint edger. Paint edgers come in two types: roller-style edgers or pad-style edgers.
Spread-on edgers employ a pad that spreads the paint across the surface. In some cases, the paint may feed on a tube or the pad may need re-loading from the paint can or paint tray.
Tips For Buying a Paint Edger:
If a paint edger has a special roller or pad that is difficult to find or is very expensive, the overall cost of the edger skyrockets.
What is the paint edger’s edge-most point? For some edgers, it may be a small brush. For others, a metal or plastic guard.
Other edgers may have no defined edge point other than the edger itself.
Paint edgers need to move. Roller-style edgers move with the least friction, but speed can be difficult to control. Pad-style edgers are easy to control, but the paint tends to smear.
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